Monday, March 15, 2010

Spotlight on Sabrina Butterfly


Photo Courtesy of SBD

This is my first designer interview, so forgive me if I didn't ask any of the things you wanted to know, and concentrated on things I have always wondered about when it comes to the wonderful world of retail, and transitioning from designer to small business owner, and finding balance for it all.



Sabrina Butterfly
is a beautiful store located in one of my favorite areas in Edmonton. There is no doubt that the location suits the store, with a small collection of other quaint shops nestled in the north east of our city. What took me by surprise was when I was at Edmonton Fashion Week (way back when) and saw a show of incredibly balanced, innovative and flattering clothing, and did some digging to find out that it was designed by someone right here in Edmonton, and that I had been missing out on beautiful clothes. Even better, the designer behind the line was the first to agree to talk to me about why and how she makes the magic happen.

I was drawn to her clothing because of her historically inspired fashions with sophisticated colour schemes. I queried if this was the evolution of her personal aesthetic or a response to the Edmonton market? (Click on the picture above, it will take you to her blog showing her line- clothes for everybody!)

My designs are timeless, which means I am drawing inspiration from past collections or silhouettes from the past and putting a new twist into them. This makes them feel very classic and easy to wear but yet truly unique with the fabrics I chose and the details I add.
I love many eras, from the 1920s - 60's.

It's sometimes nice to play with design concepts that were once very flattering for certain body types. I am definitely all about fit and making clothing for the average women. I try to size my clothing a little bigger than your typical size run. I feel it's more real.

Sometimes my inspiration starts with fabrics that I have around in my studio. And then I build on that. I tend to buy fabrics whenever I see something I like. I don't usually buy all my fabrics at once for a certain season. I may use it a year later when I see a color trend or have decided exactly what I want to make with that fabric. So to say the least, I have a pretty big fabric collection!

I do have many basic designs within my line, that I repeat each season in different fabrics.
This really helps with designing a collection, as I always know those designs will be my foundation and whatever new designs I bring forth that season will stand out even more. My customers seem to love this because when they do have a favorite pant, skirt or top, it's really nice to have it in different fabrics which creates a whole different look but yet has the same great fit.

I do sometimes draw inspiration from other designs that I see, through fashion magazines, websites, on the street, etc. I will take small design concepts from many different places and compile them into a garment. It's funny because sometimes something I originally saw, which could have been a picture, evolves into something totally different in the end result but yet it started with that idea. So what I am trying to say is it's not like I am copying a design completely I may just take certain aspects of that design and make it my own or transform the idea to make it work with the fabrics I am using.

Designing a collection is definitely the best part of my job, and I wish one day this is all I that I can be doing!


I wanted to know what are her biggest challenges as a small business operator? What are her successes, what makes her keep going? Does she attribute some of this to her Edmonton market? Sabrina also does some travelling sales. I am mystified at how she maintains her balance as a designer, a store owner, a sales person- what does she most enjoy? How does she manage it all?

The biggest challenge has been transitioning from designer to store owner; staying organized with of all the small stuff: including customer requests, items to bring to the store, thoughts I have about merchandising and then taking out the time to go and follow through with it. It's a whole other job!

Managing the store, communication being #1 with my staff, letting them know what's going through my mind and how I would like the store to be run or what sales and specials are happening. All 3 gals who work at the store are really great and definitely each bring their own creative ideas to work. I feel very confident that I can trust all of them to keep the store running smoothly.

And lastly is balancing my time between everything!!

Working in my studio, designing, pattern drafting, doing all my cutting for my line, ordering fabrics and notions, staying organized with the manufacturer....
And all jobs in between that include ordering product for the store, marketing, advertising, trying to come up with my next idea to get customers to come to the store more frequently.

These jobs are endless and it's a day to day process when trying to accomplish these tasks.

I try to make lists, so there are days when I work through them but there are also days when they are thrown out the window because something needs to be assessed immediately.

It takes a lot to have my mind rest and not think about work.

So then I asked her about what her aspirations are for the line and the store…Her goals are prepared, her vision is clear, the spring is coiled, now it’s just time for it to happen…

• To sell my clothing line to boutiques across Canada.
• To develop a solid line and catalogue so I can approach these boutiques in a buying season, to kick start my Wholesale collection…
• To bring my days as a traveling store to an end but then give my customers abroad a simple way to access my line…
• To create an on-line store. (But I would first have to figure out a standard size chart, as my line is pre-shrunk. I would only be able to sell certain garments, that customers know the fit of that fabric.)

Sabrina’s aspirations for her store:

• To continue as home for my clothing line and many other designers…
• Possibly expanding one day, so my studio and store can be all in one location.

Do you wake up every day and feel pretty awesome about making your passion your life?

Here's to my 12th year in design, I am still fulfilling my passion. Back in the Fall of 1998, I started designing my first collection under the label Sabrina Butterfly Designs. I remember how exciting it was to start seeing customers trying on and talking about the clothing. And to this day I still get the same sparkle in my eye when customers truly appreciate what I do and how my clothing makes them feel.

I love what I do for a living.

I am grateful for all the support I have received from my family and friends! It's been a long journey and they have helped me in so many ways along my path.

Because my blog delves into the idea of sustainability and (tries to address at least some) things Eco and ethical, I had to ask what her perspective was on the matter. Sabrina’s business uses Canadian manufacturing facilities. I wondered if she believed this commitment to Canadian manufacturing contributes to some of her business:

I think many consumers today want to know where the products they are buying are coming from and how they are being made.

I believe that "Made in Canada" products are very important to Canadians…Taking the small steps of letting go parts of my production has been hard and a big learning curve.

To still be involved, whether it's someone sewing from their home or having the product made in Canada, is something I can wrap my mind around.

I am a cottage industry.
I have always liked the idea of a community working together and supporting each other.

I do work with natural fiber fabrics but this only includes cotton and linen (some hemp). I haven't gone into organics, soy or bamboo. Love the fabrics but the overhead cost for the small amounts that I use double my retail prices. I try to keep most of the clothing I make affordable, I know there are a lot of designers using these materials but I just haven't found any of these fabrics within my budget.

I try to recycle what I don't use, so I pass on my scraps and larger pieces of fabrics, to other designers who make hats and handbags.

When talking about the other names and goodies in her store:

Many of the designers I first started carrying in the store were friends and fellow crafters, who I had met at through the shows I had participated in. Our lines complimented each other and we had a similar customer market. This was an easy decision to make, as I knew we all had the same standards in quality workmanship and uniqueness.

When I source out new designers today, I look for those same qualities. I also love to find products no one else is carrying too. This is a tricky task. As there is a lot of stores who carry handmade items but many have decided to only carry Canadian Designers. I think this is great but if I wanted to have different designers in the store, I need to look elsewhere. So I look for designers who really stand out with their own individuality and innovative designs. I also look for different price points, to be able to offer the customer different options. I try to keep each category of designers down to a minimum so I don't saturate the store in a one similar product. Plus I want to give each designer their maximum exposure in my small 400 square foot space

Her words of wisdom for people who are looking for this adventure themselves:

My advice for an aspiring designer would be:
Baby steps are good.
• Research avenues that you can sell your work, whether it be through small or large craft shows, stores or festivals.
• Or if you have the financial back up go straight for some of the independent clothing stores. They are always great supporters of new designers. Some will consign your work, so this is a good way to start.
• Get out there to find out who your customer market is. Sometimes you must flow with what sells best. Embrace those designs as your "bread and butter" and then develop the rest of your line around it.
• Keep an email list, a wise soul suggested this to me and I am sure glad he did. This is the best way to keep in touch with your customers. This way you can keep them informed with what you are doing and where you are going to be next. They will follow you.
• Stay focused, this is probably the hardest part; especially if you work from home.
Goals are important to have. Keep them near, as the quicker you reach them the more positive you will feel about what you are doing.

I think the last point she offered was too pretty to add to this bullet list- its so apt for most of life…
Be patient, if it's in your heart and soul to do this, it will unfold for you in a loving way!

Thursday, March 11, 2010

Lots to do!

Well, this is just a post regarding why people work the way they do.

As I have mentioned, I recently was elected to be VP academic on my student association. I unfortunately had some issues clearing my work schedule, so today was the first meeting I was able to attend of the whole executive council.

There was a lot to go over, and I think my eyes are way to big for my stomach- there is so much I want to do, so much I feel I can accomplish, and so much I think I can help, or change.

Other people on the council seem to be more moderated. I don't know if its personality and they just take things slow, or from being overtired, or just that the meeting seemed like old hat... I am trying to let it make me even more enthusiastic, allow my passion to overrun or at least add some vivid colour back into this crew! We are all working together on this ship and we all have the ability to make it sail, or to make it sink.

How do you develop big vision or inspire big works from people who don't feel as passionate as you? Am I destined to be overwhelmed or burnt out?

I think attitude is capable of changing a situation. Perhaps that makes me an optimist, feeling that believing is half way to doing. I also think that even if it really isn't, at least one person in a collaboration needs to maintain that mantra, in order to provide the vision and inspiration for the people who are more realistically grounded or whatever you want to call it (cynical?)

So... here I go. Being the motivator. Horray Horray Horray!

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

'I've Had Three R ed Bulls in 15 Minutes!'


That's not true people. It's just a quote from one of my favorite movies to watch when I need help being motivated. (Kn.ocked Up). I actually think that particular brand of energy drink tastes like cough syrup. If I am going to overload myself with caffeine, it will be with a patriotic slam of Beaver Buzz. Now that stuff is delicious jittery goodness. I am just being proactive with my blog because I have let it fall by the wayside.


So here's what I have done: I am embarking on a new journey of networking and self education. I am contacting independant shops- small businesses throughout Edmonton, to see what makes them special, to highlight why they are the successful little jewels of ingenuity in our little metropolis. I started with just one which really impressed me at Edmonton Fashion Week, and am expanding to hopefully make the interviews and highlights of these stores somewhat of a feature series for this blog. I hope it will be exciting, and even if you're all bored to tears, I am certain I will learn all sorts of goody information. (So there.)

Monday, March 8, 2010

Back to Being Accountable

So, I have been quite neglectful of this little corner of my world. Then this morning, while walking to my car, I realized that it was muddy and gross and needed a wash. Which made me think... "Wow. It's been almost a year since I started off with my car wash of just water... Go me!" When I am motivated to do one thing, I tend to get motivated about all the things going in my life. The past few months have been spent just treading water, mainly because I was trying to find the balance again, but now that things are in a good place, it's time to be 'Postive Positive Positive!' I hope you will see stuff from me more often, and hopefully be relatively entertained!

I took a position as VP Academic of my departments student's association. Since a lot of the academic issues are handled by profs, I have instead contacted the recruitment coordinator, and she asked me to do a short DVD that she can send out to schools so they know what our program is about and hopefully recruit students. I took several film classes back when I was a psych major drama minor (I know, how useless would that have been!) and am really excited to work on my editing skills again... I have totally twisted the arm of every prof and student I know, in the hopes that whenever and whatever I show up to film will be super... and I really hope I can put the video up here for you guys to watch- how exciting!

We had a stuff swap this past week for our department- Human Ecology students bringing in all sorts of goodies they don't want and sharing them, and taking others goodies if they want them. We ended up raising some money (by donation), and donated more than 8 garbage bags of clothes and household items to The Bissell Center which is a fabulous organization in Edmonton which helps pretty much anyone who needs it. This was a fabulous fit for Human Ecology: A beneficial community minded fund/stuff raiser fits with the Family Ecology side of our program, and the clothing swap fits with the fashion/design/sustainability side. Go us!

One of the classes I am in is putting together a gallery exhibit that challenges the concept of Authenticity: What is it, where does authentic start and fake begin? It's still fairly ethereal right now, but it definitely starts your brain thinking: a knock off designer purse is still a purse, so is it fake? Faux wood panel is obviously faux wood so do people just like the look of faux? This will all be a way longer post when the exhibit starts coming together and I have some artifacts to show you, but until then... just think about it. What makes an object authentic, or what makes it possess it's authenticity?

Friday, February 26, 2010

EEEEK! Project!


So I did my site visit for my practicum today. I will be working at a textiles distributors, specializing in industrial goodies. I found out some really interesting information, which makes me excited.
  • They are working on an aramid recycling program for all the specialty fabrics being used for protective fabrics, which is right up my sustainability alley
  • They don't just sell things, they research the standards and safety regulations of each industry, and then deliver information back to the production companys with not just recommendations, but samples and criteria of what will be best received by that industry, and that set of standards. There's a lot more design than I originally knew.
  • The Boss (et. al.) thrive on the challenge, it doesn't seem like too much of a boring office job
  • The back shop is full of FUN stuff: sequined fabrics, reflective tape, embroidery thread, weird ugly clearance 90's workout pant material

Friday, February 19, 2010

Textiles East


I am escaping. I am getting in my car, with my husband, and running away for three beautiful days.... I have been the ultimate hermit this week anyways...

I have started working on one of my final assignments: a report responding to one of three scenarios regarding the wear and usage of textiles... and I think I am going to geek out and do all three.


Horray for three days off.

Saturday, January 30, 2010

Quandry

How much less
could a use less
use
if a use less
could
use
less?

This is my new mantra.

Love the simple reminder to reduce.

Friday, January 29, 2010

No More Whining

Ok, I apologize for the grumpy befuddled "I hate big trucks" rant. Today is just a fun catch up posting, about where I'm at, what I'm doing, and how it all applies to *you guessed it* my life as a burgeoning Human Ecologist.

Today is a new day, and I am POSITIVE POSITIVE POSITIVE.
"I have had about three Red B.ulls in the last fifteen minutes."
(Not really, I think Red B.ull tastes like cough syrup, which makes me throw up a little, but I am caffeinated, and I slept through my first class this morning so I'm a little more peppy than usual... thus the run on sentences. My energy drink of choice [or my caffination process when all nighters with energy are required] is a Canadian brand called Beaver Buzz [weird I know, right?] which tastes pretty good, but then I mix it with Powerade and pineapple juice. Pineapple juice prevents your tummy from getting super acidy, which is always a problem when I pull all nighters, and Powerade keeps me hydrated, which is the worst part of energy drinks, aside from all the caffeine, weird colours and crazy ingredients they pretend are good for me but actually aren't. That's my trade secret, so keep it on the down low, but feel free to use it amongst yourselves and your loved ones.)

What am I up to? Well, I have been working a lot, and getting paid, which is fun! I am definitely feeling the pressure of less time than before, but it's not the same as when I worked on the other end of the city and had to drive there for 8 hours after my school, usually short shifts with some really fabulous girls who respect me, and I in turn reciprocate. I am totally trying to study or work on school junk at least a bit each night when I get home. I also have been working on my personal work project- finding a non profit organization willing to accept the 'damaged' goods from our store. Otherwise they just cut them to pieces so no one can pull them out of the trash and try to return them for store credit, and this whole theory makes me sad like a small emo-child in the corner. I came into the back room one day and I felt this huge ball in my stomach as the manager explained that we could prevent the slaughtering of all these relatively perfect goods if only we had someone with the time to make a few phone calls.

CHALLENGE EXTENDED.
.
.
.
.
CHALLENGE ACCEPTED

I started my mission by thinking about people I know who work with kids etc who would be willing to use the goods. One of my buddies is working with at risk youth teaching them to sew. Her organization doesn't have the storage capacity to take the goods right now, and since her program just started, the kids don't have the skills to rework the goods yet, so my search continues. My next choice was a shelter that has halfway houses which helps youth get into their own stable living situations, because they may need clothes for interviews or special events and they are just the kids who couldn't afford them. Often the items can't be sold because they have been worn and were returned by persnickety customers who were upset with a tiny problem. So they are SUPER nice clothes, but they have been worn. I still haven't heard back from them yet, so I will be moving on to some other groups soon if that doesn't pan out. Who knew it would take so much work to find people who want to take free stuff? WEIRD. But I will DO it.

(and yes, I am typing this all really fast, and feel like I'm talking at a million miles a second. Feel free to speed read to get the full on Alex P. on coffee experience.)

My Gluten Free World has benefited me as I am no longer covered in leprous splotches. This is a vast improvement. I have discovered that usually the only thing I can order at most restaurants is salad or nachos, and if its a pub or cheaper restaurant the nachos are usually the better choice because no one ever orders salad in those places, so its usually brown and gross. Nicer restaurants often have lots of neat options, but I am finding it way better if I just eat at home. This is good for my pocket book, and just my personal understanding of my body. I also use it as justification to have coffee from the green demon more often, because mocha syrup non fat americano mistos are practically the only yummy thing I can still have without a tonne of work. (Except for the gluten free chocolate covered donuts I found in the freezer aisle at the market down the street. I don't really like donuts normally, but these little bundles of joy were the only thing that kept me from having a melt down a few weeks ago when chocolate was an absolute necessity. And PROPS to my DH who went out and picked up a box this week 'just in case' I want more soon. Because he's Awesome. [capitalized for effect])

I am working on a group project related to hollow fiber sports wear, and this of course involves a lot of petroleum and unnatural based fiber usage. This usually makes me upset, because it's hard to think of all the stuff we are creating which doesn't break down and is just thrown away or not used to it's full capable extent. The other side of the argument is that this clothing is technical, and increases a persons comfort and is very appealing for many reasons, its wicking and durable, it makes exercise a more enjoyable experience. Awesome because health and body awareness are important. This particular Literature review has made me a bit happier. On the downside, I'm having trouble finding the exact papers I need, specifically about hollow fibers in sports wear. Since Human Ecology is such a small portion of the University, a lot of the textiles periodicals which may be useful are ones we have to request on Inter Library Loan, instead of having direct digital access. This is so frustrating since they have to ship the papers from whatever library in our network actually subscribes, which takes more time than we have, since we present on Wednesday of next week (EEEK). Wow. I digress. The good side of being really particular about my search parameters is that I am finding a lot of research about specialty fabrics which are being designed to have these technical aspects, but also to provide additional benefits to the environment like being recyclable (WOW) or even biodegradable (double WOW). The research itself is inspiring, because the textiles industry has long been a little behind in being socially responsible in pretty much every way shape and form (ethical labour practices, environmental procedures in development of textiles and garments, etc. .)
It is so good to see that not only does the industry understand that these items will help the world in the long run, but also that they need to be tested and shown to be just as effective as the articles we are using at this time. Because the research will lead to the production value.

OK. So that's where I am. Onward, Upward.

Monday, January 18, 2010

Squeezing Into the Green World

So, usually I leave my car at school in my parking garage, and use the light rail train (LRT) system or the bus to get around the city. Since I have recently gotten a job, and the LRT hasn't set up that far south yet (to be completed this summer probably) I am unable to do that, since the buses aren't fast enough. This means I drive my car to and from work many days, which is about a 5 minute drive. It's not great for the world, but keeping my car at the school still saves about 15 extra minutes of driving my car to my house, which is across the river.



Sometimes I think the world has become so accustomed to wealth that they now just equate 'doing well' to being a normal standard of living. People don't HAVE to have a truck, but it is a status symbol, a representation of where they are in the world, not caring if it uses more gas in the 20 minute drive home than my little hatchback uses in a drive to Red Deer (yes, Red Deer is a city, it's about 1.5 hours away, and my car uses less than a quarter tank to get there).

Case in point: the parkade I park in is an absolute hazard with the number of exteded cab giant trucks parked within it's walls. They block the driving lane because they stick out so far, and they often take up more than one space in the parkade to protect their precious paint jobs. There is no need for this many students to have vehichles this large, worth tens of thousands of dollars to get too and from school. The attitude that comes with them is what bothers me most. The air of entitlement and lack of common sense and moderation hits home. I also just hate the lack of courtesy to other parkers when they take up too much space. Today, two large trucks were both parked just over the line on either side of a parking space. This is my pet peeve. It takes 20 seconds to adjust your placement of your vehicle, it would take nothing to move over so that you are respecting your own space. These two trucks choose not to, eliminating the possibility of a parking space... except for a wee little car like mine. Now, I can assume that these people were just being negligent and rude, or I can assume they were late for class and so adjusting didnt seem important in the grand scheme of time... Either way, their need to have a huge truck and not be parked well outshone the needs of others, including even common courtesy. So I folded in my little side mirrors and slipped my car into the demi-spot that was custom made for my lil car balancing out the monoliths beside me.

I am hypocritical, ranting about a personal peeve on a page which is meant for eco and ethical ponderings of human ecology. But I can't help but think that this lack of thought for other people may have a larger impact, or reflect the larger scope of things: When a person chooses a product, is it a larger reflection of themselves? Or am I just blowing things out of proportion? The further I write about this stupid occurence, the dumber I feel about how gross it makes me feel, because it is just silly. That said, I just don't understand why people need such huge vehicles when they are usually just getting from A-B, and why these two individuals chose to park so rudely... Do they litter, swear loudly in public places, and unseat the old woman on the bus (oh wait, they don't take the bus... they have the giganta-mobile, my bad). If we cannot deem to take the time to be decent to neighbors, fellow students, etc, how are we to find the capacity within ourselves to be decent to the world, which many regard as a fairly inanimate object?

Pondersome.

And grumpy. Sorry about that. I will be adorable later.

Friday, January 15, 2010

Foot Loose and Gluten Free

So.... I have been away for quite a while.

I took a job at a store. I dont hate it, I don't love it, but it's still very new. I am optomistic that things will be beautiful there soon, and I will be loved and adored by all (naturally.) I need to increase my communication with my direct supervisor, because I think I haven't made the best first impression with her. I think I need to up my a-game in regards to clothes...I am a little on the casual side for what they mandate... That said, I have been doing well in my actual responsibilities, so I guess that's fine....

The exciting aspect of this job is that they have internships with their design team or buying team for employees. Which isn't that helpful for normal high school student employees, but for me, who is looking for a way to get into the garment industry... Perfect! Now, all I have to do is impress and impact all the management, and everything will be... fine. Right? (fingers crossed)

Since I took that job, I have received maybe 10 calls about other jobs I applied for. When it rains, it pours! None of them has the same kind of career potential, although many of them pay more, so I have been a bit torn. Maybe somewhere down the road I will regret my decision, but at this time, I am just going to stick to the plan.

The other side of my world, personal and internal:

Over Christmas break, and leading up to that time, I had been having really bad bouts of hives pretty much every day. I have terrible food allergies- seafood, nuts, soy, etc, and am quite careful to avoid all of these things. So the hives were leaving me flumoxed. My sister has celiac, and has been bugging me for quite some time to just get rid of wheat because it's likely the root of many of my problems, and I decided that maybe now is the time.

So I am gluten free. I think it's been two weeks. My hives have been steadily decreasing in occurence. Some mornings I wake up and find patches of them, but they are WAY less itchy.

It may be related to wheat, or it may be just that I'm eating more whole and fresh foods. I don't know, and I'm so relieved that I'm willing to stick with it.

How are you?